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Las Vegas is one of my favorite cities. There, I said it already, that’s it. I’ve seen a lot of people frown when I’ve expressed it to them:
– “Las Vegas, as tacky as that city is…”
– “Precisely!”
At this point in my life, I’m much more attracted to authenticity than sticker sophistication –I admit it wasn’t always that way, but it’s never too late to get back on the right track. Las Vegas is probably, plain and simple, the tackiest city in the world –although some of those imitation Chinese cities can still beat it, eh? And I think Las Vegas doesn’t pretend to be anything other than primarily a place where adults go to have a good time. It’s a kistch Disneyworld for adults – with pleasures to match. That was its origin: gambling, sex and drugs -may the Flanders of the world excuse us; don’t get impatient, they’ll soon build you a life-size Legoland. In Las Vegas they will throw into the pot anything that might be entertaining or sounds like fun – without caring much about how the whole thing looks. And if that doesn’t work, then they’ll throw something else in.
Las Vegas is a histrionic, hysterical, dramatic, extravagant, overflowing, excessive and hedonistic city, with a dark side that appeals to the depths of the human condition: pleasure and vice. Arriving by plane you can appreciate how it is a huge point of neon light in the middle of the Nevada desert. There is nothing for miles around – beyond the small motels that dot the highways that connect to the city. It is impressive to approach from the north at night -I did it by car coming from Utah- and how on the road you are plunged into the deepest darkness -the starry sky I saw in the Nevada desert will remain forever in my memory- until the mushroom of light begins to glimpse on the other side of the mountains and, suddenly bang: millions of watts of light scattered in the middle of nowhere.
The luxury in the big casino-hotels is superb. Among other establishments in the city, I have had the opportunity to stay at the Linq, Mandalay Bay and Caesars Palace and, inside, they are like small cities with everything you need. You can do your whole life inside the resorts without going outside or even seeing daylight. And since the interior lighting is the same at any time and there are always -always!- people inside walking around, gambling… it is difficult to notice the passing of the hours.
The Las Vegas Strip is the conglomeration of the most famous hotel-casinos in a 6 km long strip south of the city, arranged on both sides of the street. That’s where the heart of the matter lies. Further north is the Fremont St. area, where the casinos were originally clustered. During the 50’s and 60’s the biggest and best casinos were built along the Strip. Fremont has remained more local.
Today Las Vegas is a major international convention center. Many of the major trade fairs in the USA are held there. And it makes sense, since the city’s hotel capacity is extremely large, and the exhibition spaces in the various casino-hotels are spacious and excellently equipped. As you can imagine, the context provides plenty of scope for business dinners and late-night entertainment. As they say in America, what happens in Vegas stays in Vegas. The consequence is that throughout the week the hotels are busy with business visitors, and on weekends with tourists. And the number of sunny days per year is very high. Las Vegas is always a good plan. Prices on and around the Strip are very high. Dining a hamburger at Gordon Ramsey’s is > $40 pax. But just crossing the Interstate I-15, parallel to the Strip and only 500 m. away, you have on the other side several malls with stores and restaurants for the locals. Special mention for the Iranian restaurant Hafez Persian Cuisine, a hidden gem that I entered out of curiosity and where I discovered their marinated lamb shish kabob. I liked it so much that to catch the flight back I calculated the necessary time in advance to return so that I could repeat before returning the rental car.
The Flamingo
In 1931, the State of Nevada legalized gambling, and during Prohibition, mobsters saw a business opportunity in gambling. The origin dates back to the 1940s, when U.S. Route 91, known as Highway 91, ran through the Nevada desert. Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel, along with Meyer Lansky and Moe Sedway, bought the now famous Cortez casino-hotel in the Fremont area just to learn the business. Just a year later, he sold it and invested in creating the Flamingo, the city’s first modern hotel-casino. Throughout its history, the Flamingo has hosted memorable performances by Judy Garland, Dean Martin and Jerry Lewis, Tom Jones, Tony Martin, Louis Armstrong, Olivia Newton-John, Paula Abdul, Toni Braxton and RuPaul.
Directly across the street from the Flamingo is The Caesars Palace:
The Caesars Palace
Opened in 1966 by Jay Sarno, an entrepreneur with a bold vision: he wanted guests to feel like Roman emperors. That’s why its name is spelled “Caesars” and not “Caesar’s” (no apostrophe) because Sarno wanted everyone to feel like a Caesar, not that the place belonged to just one.
It was one of the first resorts to have a luxurious pool, giant fountains, theatrical performances and high-end restaurants all in one place. Although inspired by Rome, it has a mix of Greek, Egyptian and even contemporary elements. It’s not historically accurate – and it doesn’t need to be!
Thus, scattered throughout the resort are numerous replicas of famous statues and sculptural ensembles from antiquity. In the lobby there is a representation of the Three Graces. The Fontana di Trevi in the outdoor gardens. Michelangelo’s David in a hallway of the mall, and the Victory of Samothrace (or Nike of Samothrace) in the front facing the sidewalk on the Strip.
The casino part is impressive, with details taken care of to the maximum and everything you need to sit for hours and gamble -either at a table or at a machine- without being disturbed or missing anything.
In the 1970s and 1980s, Caesars was synonymous with high rollers. One of the most famous records: a player bet $1 million on a single roll at a craps table. I, who complain that I don’t win the lottery but will not buy a bet even if they double my arm, made the only bet in Las Vegas: $1 on a slot machine. And therein lies the reason: it’s not that I don’t like to gamble; what I don’t like is to lose. And if in my experience, that’s what happens most often. Then, why suffer?.
The Luxor
You happen to be more of a Cleopatra fan than a Mark Antony fan? Well, there you have the Luxor, one of the most emblematic resorts in Las Vegas, famous for its black Egyptian pyramid shape and its powerful beam of light shining from its peak, visible even from space. What about that!
It has a 30-story pyramid, a replica of the Great Sphinx, its obelisk and jeglorifics everywhere. Let it not be said that they are not educating visitors.
The Excalibur
Do both Greco-Roman times and Ancient Egypt seem too ancient for you? Well, there you have the Excalibur Hotel & Casino, known for its medieval theme inspired by the legend of King Arthur. You just can’t make this up.
It has jousting tournaments on horseback and everything, and male strippers to keep the party going! All that inside a medieval castle; it’s so crazy!
The Venetian
But if what we want is to enjoy a few romantic days while betting up to the shirt we are wearing, nothing better than The Venetian.
The resort is home to replicas of famous Venetian landmarks, such as the Doge’s Palace, St. Mark’s Campanile and the Rialto Bridge, creating an authentic Venetian atmosphere in the middle of the Nevada desert.
Guests can enjoy gondola rides along the resort’s internal and external canals, guided by gondoliers who sometimes sing and add a romantic and cultural touch to the experience.
París Las Vegas
But if we are not only romantic but also modern, what better than to visit the casino hotel Paris Las Vegas, which takes us to the City of Light in the early twentieth century.
It has a medium scale replica of the Eiffel Tower, reaching 165 meters in height.
In addition to the Eiffel Tower, the resort features replicas of the Arc de Triomphe, the Louvre Museum, the Opéra Garnier and the Place de la Concorde. How is that beat?
New York-New York
The fabulous supersonic Concorde aircraft made the Paris-New York route in 3 hours and 30 minutes. A technical marvel, but of course, it couldn’t compete with Las Vegas. You cross the street from Paris and there you are, already, in the middle of New York. Two minutes and you are immersed in a recreation of the Manhattan skyline, with scale replicas of iconic buildings such as the Empire State Building, the Chrysler Building, the Brooklyn Bridge and the Statue of Liberty.
The hotel’s main tower, a replica of the Empire State Building, stands 47 stories and 159 meters tall, having been the tallest building in Nevada until the Wynn Las Vegas opened in 2005. The Big Apple Coaster is a steel roller coaster – seen behind the Statue of Liberty – that runs both inside and outside the hotel, offering panoramic views of the Strip.
Harrah’s
Harrah’s Las Vegas Hotel & Casino opened in 1973 as the Holiday Casino, with a steamboat-inspired facade, but underwent a $200 million renovation in 1997 that transformed it into a carnival and Mardi Gras style.
The Bellagio
With architecture inspired by Lake Como, the Bellagio opened its doors on 1998, with an investment of approximately $1.6 billion, making it the most expensive hotel ever built at the time.
The Bellagio is recognized worldwide for its appearance in the movie “Ocean’s Eleven” (2001), where an elaborate heist takes place in its casino.
The Bellagio Fountains are famous for their synchronization with music and lights, offering a free show that takes place in the artificial lake in front of the hotel.
People crowd around the balustrade to see it.
The system uses 1,200 jets and 4,500 lights to create an impressive aquatic choreography.
It’s all very lysergic, very eclectic, very messy… in a city that runs like clockwork given the sheer number of visitors that arrive and leave every day, every day of the year.
Its main attraction is that it is an airport within a reasonably short distance – expressed in hundreds of kilometers, of course – from natural paradises such as Utah, California, New Mexico and Arizona. Fly to Las Vegas and make a road trip through the American Southwest. I have repeated it 3 times. And the days you have to remain in Las Vegas are always fun with something to do or see. Such a great plan.
It’s worth it, even if you’re not a gamer.